Fly Blog

by Mark Waldin Custom Fly Rods – Most people know the advantages and disadvantages of fishing a fast action fly rod.  Fast fly rods punch harder and form tighter loops than slow rods.  Tighter loops mean less air resistance and better penetration in windy conditions.  But fast fly rods are harder to cast than slower rods.  This is particularly true when making shorter casts.

The reason is fairly simple.  Fast rods build up energy over a shorter stroke (of the rod) and slower rods build that energy up over a longer bend.  The time it takes the fast rod to unload that energy is also much shorter than the slower rod.  If your cast is short, then the stroke is even shorter and the time is less!

Because the fly rod unloads faster your timing has to be more exacting.  Think of it like this.  If a slow rods unloads in 1.5 seconds and a fast rod unloads in .5 seconds, and your casting is off by .3 seconds you will have lost  20% of the energy of the slow rod but 60% of the energy of the fast rod!  If you are doing a short cast and not fully loading the rod the problem will be amplified.  What’s the solution?

If you have two left feet and can carry a tune you might want to stick with a slow rod.  If you have potential and feel like you are an average joe or jane then the solution is called practice.   Learning casting is like riding a bike.  It takes time to get the hang of it and frankly you have to teach your body to react to it.  It is as much about getting to the point where your body reacts without your mind having to than anything else.  Only practice will get you there…..BUT, it will get you there.  (By the way, don’t practice while you are fisihing.  Set time aside to practice each week where you can focus on casting only.) The choice is yours.  You can improve your game or stick with the tricycle and forgo the bicycle.

Oh, but what about short casting?  Yes, this is even more difficult.  What you want to do is make sure you get the rod fully loaded on those short casts so you have as much time as possible to get the timing close.  Best way to do this is to overline the rod.  The extra fly line weight will fully load the rod with a shorter line in the air giving you back the time you lost.

by Mark Waldin  Flycatcher Custom Fly Rods – I know a lot of fly rod builders that advise a newbie to build a cheap fly rod to get started.  They figure it is going to turn out looking like crap so why mess up on a good rod.  My opinion is that if you build a rod that you really don’t want to use to fish and you expect to screw it up, then chances are you are going to have a rod you are not proud of when you get done.  My opinion is to not even build a rod unless it is one you plan to do right and you plan to be proud of and fish with for years to come.  I think that most people are most afraid of the guide wrappings and coating.  This is the area that may be hardest to get right the first time.  So I am going to give you a few pointers to help you along.  But I also want you to know that even if you do mess it up, the guides are the easiest thing to redo and fix also.  So, buy the rod you really want and take your time to do it right.  You’ll be proud of it and you’ll love fishing it.

Here are a few tips:

Overlapping wraps: when you are laying down wraps watch carefully for thread overlapping a previous wrap.  This will show up in the finished product.  Take your time and inspect as you go.  If you have to, wrap so that there is a gap between the wrap going down and the wraps already down.  Then use your thumbnail to pull them up tight.

Separating wraps: wrap three or four thread wraps and then pull the wrap up tight using your thumbnail.  This will keep the wrap snug with no gaps.  Drop your pull through loop in place at least 5 or 6 wraps from the end so that the final wraps don’t come loose when you put down the wrap coat.  Make sure those final wraps are snug but not too snug or you will not be able to pull the thread through with the loop.

Hanging chads: use a razor blade to cut your thread down close to the wrapping.  A somewhat dull blade is often better than a new one as it has some small pitting in it that acts to snag and cut the thread.  Many times you will not have any hanging thread when you do this.  Where you do have hanging thread use a cigarette lighter to melt back the nub being careful not to melt the wrap.

Wrap coat bubbles:  You need not have bubbles in your wrap coat if you are careful.  Use a narrow bottom vessel like a pill cup to mix your coating.  Use a plastic stirring stick like a coffee stirrer.  Stir so slow that you think you couldn’t go any slower and then go slower.  Heat the mixture with a hair dryer or a warm water bath before stirring.  It will probably take 3 or more minutes to thoroughly stir your coating…that’s ok!

Get a rod turner: Yes you can build a rod without any equipment but do you want the result to look good?  Get a rod turner.  You can get one pretty cheap so don’t skimp on this essential tool.  Work quickly but not by compromising quality.  You’d do better to get half done and have to stir up another batch of coating than to be sloppy.  If it seems your coating is starting to thicken up too much, try the hair dryer to thin it down some.  Worst case, mix another batch.   Use the first coat to just thoroughly soak the thread.  Don’t try to use it to create a nice finish.  That is what the next two coats are for.

Inspect frequently and thoroughly:  Before the first coat make sure you’ve gotten all the thread nubs off that you can and make sure all the thread wraps are pulled up tight with no gaps in the thread.  Do this BEFORE you mix up the coating or start applying it!

Trim: after the first (each) coat look for any bumps or stray coating lumps that may have built.  Use a razor to cut them off and smooth them up.

Work in a ‘clean’ room: Dust is death. Wrap finish is glossy and reflective.  Even the smallest dust particle in your wrap finish is going to alter the reflection of light and provide pinpoints of reflected light that will make any imperfection look ten times bigger than it is.   The only way to avoid this is to work in an extremely clean room.  Make sure the room is dusted, vacuumed, and cleaned first.  Make sure that any dust that may have been stirred up (while cleaning even) has settled before you begin.  Make sure you are clean and lint free.  This advice can make a big difference in your outcome so don’t skimp here.

Finally, remember that a wrapping screw up can be fixed so don’t get paranoid.

by Mark Waldin Flycatcher Custom Fly Rods – I’ve been doing a series pulling user reviews of various fly rods from a variety of web sites. I find trying to get reviews of rods very frustrating. This review is of the St Croix Legend Elite series of fly rods. This is the SCV rod blank and St Croix’ top of the line. Personally I find that you get more rod for your money with St Croix than any other brand I know. I really love these rod blanks. To get a more complete review of a variety of rods go to Flycatcher’s Fly Wiki .

Here are the reviews along with their sources:

I use a 7wt. legend elite on the Delaware. It’s a rocket launcher. The fast action suits my casting style. It’s the third one I’ve bought. I’ve got a 4wt and a 5wt also. Love them all, the 5 is my favorite. –posted www.paflyfish.com

I’ve liked every St. Croix rod I’ve ever fished with. I did fish with a “elite” when I visted the Smokies. I got to fish both a Sage and that Elite and liked the elite better. –posted www.paflyfish.com

For fly rodders ready to make the step up to truly world-class fly rod, you’ll be happy to know that St.Croix’s commitment to value has not been ignored. The St.Croix Legend Elite is a fly rod that does its job exceedingly well. Aesthetics and workmanship are first rate, a commitment to quality made even more obvious by their choice of components. Give the Legend Elite a try next time you’re in the market for a fly rod –posted on www.hipwader.com (by Rob O’Reilly)

if the rod your are dealing for is the Legend Elite go for it (buy it). I have the 7wt and it will throw some line. –posted www.washingtonflyfishing.com

I own an 8wt, 10 foot Elite, which in my opinion is an excellent rod–sensitive yet powerful. –posted www.washingtonflyfishing.com

Legend Ultras/Elites are awesome. I had both in 5wts and still have my Elite 4pc 5wt 9′ and will compete with any Zaxis,etc. Go for it! www.washingtonflyfishing.com

I’m not going to lie, the St. Croix Legend Elite fly rod is going to cost you a pretty penny. Standard prices are between $500-$570. However, each reviewer made a point that the rod is well worth the money and that other rods of this make and quality would cost much, much more.

Do you own a Legend Elite fly rod? If so, tell a story, write a review, or rant and rave. Whatever your opinion on this piece of equipment, I want to know. Tell me everything you can by simply posting a comment! –posted www.outdoorequipmentreviews.com

GLoomis & St. Croix in the same sentence..BOO HISS..I hate GLoomis anything! Junk rods at high dollar prices..for that cash i’d take a St. Croix Legend Elite anyday. –posted www.fishingohio.net

If you get the chance, try out the Legend Ultra side by side when you throw the Elite. They are made on the same mandrels as the Elite and my experience tells me will be substantially similar in price. The Elite is faster graphite, but the LU is not slow and with the new tapers should be snappy and quick. I’d expect a much tippier action. The Legend Ultra is my favorite mid level rod, and I own two and Lauren has a third, but it is a tad bit weak in the middle for long casts. –posted ezboard.com

(Sage XP vs St Croix Legend Elite 10′ 6wt) You are correct in surmising that the Sage XP and the St. Croix Elites are very similar in action. In fact, I like the St. Croix Elite just a little bit more than the XP because it is a hair faster than the XP. –posted www.flyfishingforum.com

i have to concur with the masses, i use a st. croix legend elite 6′6″ medium action, and a legend elite ultra light
and the sensitivity is fantastic. the price is a bit steep, –posted www.chicagolandfishing.com

I have the St Croix Elite in a 10wt. One of the best 10’s I have ever had the pleasure of casting. You could do no wrong with that rod. –posted www.stripersonline.com

Ken has the new Legend Elite in a 10 wt. and likes it very well! Fast rod with a light touch…plenty of backbone. No problem. –posted www.stripersonline.com

by Mark Waldin Flycatcher Custom Fly Rods By now the weather is just starting to turn but not really.  You are itching to get out there fly fishing for trout but its too early.  Maybe not.  Here are some offerings that may help get you started early.  These come from an excellent article by  Zak Appleby that I excerpted from PA Anglers  

Stream selection for winter trout fishing is by far the most critical step in achieving success. If you select a stream that reached 80 degrees in July or August, you’ll be fishing long and hard with minimal chance of catching a trout. Choose a stream that hasn’t exceeded 75 degrees on the other hand and chances are great that you’ll be fishing over an abundant trout population that probably hasn’t seen another angler in weeks.

To improve your odds of scoring big, select the warmest possible days to fish. I’ve found that the best trout fishing occurs on days immediately following a night were the temperature never dropped below 32 degrees. By choosing these types of days you’ll be maximizing the water temperature that you’re fishing.

Remember, you’re looking to maximize the water temperature, and the simplest way to achieve this is by fishing the warmest part of the day.

Use your summer fishing techniques on fly and float.  Contrary to popular belief, trout do not act sluggish and lethargic during the winter months. Trout are strictly opportunistic feeders. As long as the water temperature stays at or above the 36 degree mark, it’s business as usual.

Swift riffles don’t produce very well until the stream temperature rises above 48 degrees. Areas at the heads and tails of pools are always a favorite holding area for wintering trout. Also, don’t forget those areas immediately behind stream obstructions (rocks, logs, etc.).

Thanks Zak!

by Mark Waldin Flycatcher Custom Fly Rods – Fly fishing low, crystal clear streams is as demanding trout fishing as there is. In these kind of conditions trout see very well and spook very easily. Here are few things to remember when outfoxing your trout.

1. Have a very careful approach to water you are looking to fish
2. Keep very low so as not to be seen by your prey.
3. Stalk your prey and try to see them without them seeing you.
4. Approach from below.
5. Cast from a low crouched position.
6. Keep your presentation as gentle as possible.
7. Sneak in and get closer rather than making a long cast if you can. This will help keep your presentation gentle.
8. Go with as long as tippet as you can handle…four feet is not out of range.
9. By getting in closer you can high stick your line, reducing the need to mend, and reducing any drag.