Fly Blog

by Mark Waldin, 4/16/2010 – Custom Fly Rods  Ever want to put a custom inscription on a fly rod?  Ever have trouble doing it?  I recently put a custom inscription on a fly rod for a retiring Lt Colonel in the airforce as a retirement gift.  I’d done inscriptions in the past using a laser printer and gold leaf on clear label stock.  I never loved the results but they were reasonably acceptable.   But this rod was an uncoated Batson Rainshadow blank in raw dark grey carbon graphite with blue and silver trim.  Gold would not be appropriate so I went with silver leaf.  The results were unacceptable as the leaf refused to cleanly lift from the paper and the label stock left a milky white image on the rod.  As a result I investigated every method under the sun.  Here is what I found…

1. Calligraphers – were very reluctant to take on writing directly on the rod.  The round surface was problem enough but not knowing how the ink and the nib would play with the graphite surface was scary.  The fact that the surface was not porous put on the finishing touch.  The calligraphers I contacted were not willing to do the job.  Estimates for doing a small calligraphy job if they were willing were in excess of $50.  Ouch!

2. Calligraphy on clear label stock – same problems in #1 except for the round surface.  I could do the writing myself and since the surface was flat I could probably convince a calligrapher to try it.  But the raw graphite surface left a milky white haze behind the lettering.

3.  Transfer paper (rub on decal) and laser printer – is a great technology.  One prints on the transfer paper with  the laser printer (or ink jet) using a reverse image.  A second process lifts the ink off the paper onto an adhesive coated paper.  Then the image is rubbed onto the surface resulting in the ink being applied directly to the surface.  This looked like a perfect solution for a custom fly rod inscription.  Unfortunately, laser inks are very transparent and the resulting image showed so much of the black graphite through as to become lost on the surface.  Of course the other problem is that there are no white or metallic colors in laser printer.

4. Slide water  transfers – also work with a laser printer if the printer can handle the heavy cardboard carrier the transfer sits on (some can).  However, the ink opacity problem carries through here so this is not practical.  However, the slide transfers adhere to the fly rod surface much better than adhesive label stock and the writing surface is rougher and slightly more absorbent as well.  Nonetheless, it had troubles with a nib type calligraphy pen.  What did work however was a Pen-Touch calligraphy pen loaded with silver ink.  Unfortunately the pens only go down to .7mm tips so the writing was relatively large.  The paper created a nice surface to write good script.  The inks held fast.   The water decal slid off well from the backing and applied nicely to the fly fishing rod.  When dry it did exhibit a slight haze but much less than the label stock.  On lacquered rods I doubt you would see the backing at all.

Bottom line — if you are not willing to write directly on the fly fishing rod or don’t want to mess it up, use water decal slide transfer paper and a Pen-Touch  pen.  (I also had recommendations to use a  Bic Gel pen but it didn’t come in white or metallic…but for colors might work well and comes in a .5mm point)  Get a calligrapher if you can afford it.  Write on the transfer paper, soak the paper, slide off the decal onto the rod and coat it with rod epoxy to hold it fast.  I got my slide transfer paper from Bel Decals in Miami over the Internet.

by Mark Waldin, 4/10/2010 Flycatcher I have been building custom fly rods for a long time and have seen lots of hardware.  When it comes to wire line guides either traditional snake or single foot guides loop guides go no further than REC recoil guides.   If you are buying an off the shelf rod, this is what you want.  If you are building your own rod, then this is really what you want.  Let me explain.

For the fisherman, REC recoil guides are made of a titanium alloy that exhibits memory.  Bend the guide and it springs back to its original shape and position.  Now I don’t know about you but I don’t stand on my fishing rod or slam it in car doors, but that doesn’t mean accidents don’t happen.  The last thing I want is damage to my favorite $600 rod because of a bent guide and REC provides the insurance that this isn’t going to be a problem.  Small cost for big insurance.  But that isn’t all of it.  REC guides are slicker than chrome guides offering less line resistance and they are harder also.  This means less scoring, less wear, and longer lasting.  I’d only trade up from REC guides if I was jumping to SiC guides.

For the fly rod builder the reasons for using REC are even greater.  Most standard chromed guides are poorly finished off.  They typically have ragged cut ends that can be sharp, of varying lengths, and sometimes flared and sometimes not.  Most builders know they have to hammer the guide foot flat and file it smooth.  Having to do this is both shameful and disconcerting.  Worse, it is easy to create sharp edges when filing guide feet.  These sharp edges can actually cut the thread and weaken the guide adherence.

REC recoil guides are simply quality all the way around.  The feet on these guides are finished properly.  Every component is identical to every other.  You can see the quality.  Each foot is flared at the end uniformly and without sharp edges.  The guides can be mounted without the need for preparation.  They are never bent or off center and they’ll never cut your thread.  They mount 30% faster and provide an excellent thread finish.  Take my word for it.  If you are going to use wire guides on your fly rod, you want to use REC recoil for fit finish, quality, and wear.  You won’t be sorry.

by Mark Waldin, Flycatcher Inc. (custom fly rods) - With President Obama set to announce plans for a push in military build up in Afghanistan, it seemed it might be interesting to research trout fishing opportunities in the country.  Nothing could be more stress relieving than a fly on the water.  Of course Afghanistan has never been known for being a fly fisherman’s mecca (at least as far as I know) but nothing ventured nothing gained.  It turns out that there is excellent trout fishing in the Khinjan River and in the upper reaches of the Andarab River which passes by the city of Khinjan in the Andarab Valley of Khinjan district.   This section of Afghanistan is in the northern section of the country’s highly mountainous region.   Trout, both brown trout and rainbow trout, are found.  A subspecies of brown trout (Salmo trutta oxenesus) swims in streams north of the Hindu Kush. This is called locally mahi-e-khaldar, which means spotted fish.   Some rainbow trout, Salmo gairdneri, have been introduced by the Bulgarians into the Salang river.

Unfortunately the area is being targeted by the Taliban (Iraq Today) so unless you are military you are not likely to be participating any time soon. 

Best seasons trout are June and late-September – early-October.

November 11, 2009, by Mark Waldin

As I have done with rods in the past, I am collecting forum comments on this rod into a single place to make it easier for you to see what people are saying.  We are now carrying this blank and rod on Flycatcher custom fly rods.  Here is what people are saying:

 ”990-4 – My first impression was, ” Hey this rod is really stiff!”, but subsequent wiggling and casting altered that impression. The rod seemed to be very stiff in the region between the top of the cork and the middle of the rod, without being noticeably stiff in the top 1/3 to 1/2 of the rod. I know that may not make a whole lot of sense, but that was my gut “feeling” when I first picked it up. After I picked the rod up, I stripped off about 30-35 feet of line, flipped the line out in front of me, made a quick backcast, and let the cast go. The line shot forward like it came out of a cannon. It layed out in a straight line, tugged at the reel when it reached the end, and dropped to the asphalt. The end of the line (not including the leader and yarn) was only 70-80 feet away so it was not a huge cast (I was only trying to lay the line out to set up for the next cast), but with the wind in my face it impressed me nonetheless.

At first, I concentrated on casting with about 35 feet of line outside the tip and shooting the WF line without a double haul. The next few casts were equally impressive. I slowly lengthened the amount of line that I had out and added a double haul to see how the rod would respond. I was able to pick up about 55 feet of line and shoot it without too much effort. I was able to put the fly out at about 90-95 feet. Longer casts and casts started with more line outside the tip were more trouble. Some were okay, some piled up, and some had tailing loops. To tell the truth, I am not quite sure whether it was the wind, my poor technique, or the rod. If I had to guess, it was probably a combination of the first two; probably more of the second one than the first one. These distances are close to the max distance that I can consistently reach with my 10 w Xi2 on the water. (Of course these distances are estimates. I guesstimated the distances by measuring the casts against the number of “panels” on the adjacent sidewalk. Each “panel” was about 7 to 8 feet long- I measured this distance by laying my 6 foot frame down on one. The end of the sidewalk was 13 panels away – between 91 and 103 feet.)

My impressions are that this rod is a true cannon. It responded best to a quick but smooth stroke that wasn’t too forceful. Too much force or too much arc didn’t really add anything to the cast. Dropping the rod too far back made it hard efficiently load it.  With moderate effort it delivered good line speed and straight line tracking required to punch a fly into the wind with no wobble or bounce back. It picked up the line efficiently. It had good feel for a big stick, but not touchy feely amounts of it. After casting dozens of casts with it, my initial feeling of stiffness in this rod seemed to stem from something besides pure stiffness. It seemed as though the lower half of the rod was not really much stiffer than its predecessor, but rather transmitted more of the “feeling” down the rod along with the flex. Some rods transmit the force by not flexing, but all you get is the dead club-like feeling. It is hard to put into words, but this rod seemed flex a bit in the lower half of the rod, while still transmitting many of the details of the force through to the handle. I think it would serve well as a surf rod. If the impressions hold in real life I think it would cast all but the largest flies very well, and I would even use this rod in many of the conditions where I currently use my 10 wt.

1090-4

It provided strikingly similar performance to the 9 weight. Moderate effort and quick steady application of power (with 30-40 feet of line outside the tip) generated very high line speeds and laser-like casts. Additional line was easily picked up and carried in the air, until my bad technique kicked in. I simply have no business trying to carry 70 feet of line in the air. Between the tailing loops, the wide loops, the (mistimed) dumped casts, and backcasts that overlapped with casters behind (and 90 degrees) to me, I was glad that I was only casting yarn. I was able get casts out to past the 100 foot mark, which I normally only reach with shooting heads (even at the casting ponds). Who knows how much of this distance will translate to on-the-water situations.

As I said, this rod was strikingly similar in feel to the 9 wt, but with more power and slightly more weight. For those that prefer a lighter weight rod, it won’t change your mind For those that prefer a 10 weight. This will cover all the same bases as previous 10 wts, but with a little less fatigue than most. It is a true saltwater rod, not just an inshore rod. It will be just as at home in an offshore situation as on the beach.

890-4
Given the similarities of the 9 and 10 wts, I expected this rod to exhibit the same characteristics. I was quite surprised when I first made a cast. Though it looked identical, the performance was quite different. Whereas the 9 and 10 wt rods had some flex deep into the rod, the majority of the flex was in the top third of the rod, whereas the 8wt had noticeably more flex deep into the rod. I would like to say that it fled well past the halfway point and possibly two-thirds of the way down the rod, I think that this was more of a reaction to the big difference between it and the other rods than reality. The difference was substantial, though; almost like they took the 9 wt and peeled of a couple wraps of graphite off the bottom and on off the top. It was different enough that I had to lengthen my casting arc and slow down the cast a little. It did seem to lack that feeling of stiffness in the middle that others had, which gave an overall impression of more “feel”. (If you are not sure what that means, I am not exactly sure either. Maybe it means hat I have lived in Kah-li-for-ni-yah for too long)

My first two casts with it produced tailing loops (I swear it was the rod and not me). After that I managed open loops that dumped at 60-70 feet. Finally after a dozen casts, I started to get dialed in. The casting style that worked best was still a smooth steady application of power, but over a little longer time and a little longer arc. It seems that the recovery speed of this rod is a little slower than the other models. At the end, I was able to reach out the 90 foot mark regularly. I have cast the 890-4 Xi2, but that was several years ago, when I bought my 10 wt, so it is hard to compare the two. I currently own an RPLXi 8 wt and an XP 8 wt. This rod has an action that seems to be a blend of those two rods. It had a flex similar to my RPLXi (maybe a little less) with more feel like the XP. Throw in better fish fighting capabilities and there you have it.

1290-4
I never have cast a 12 wt, but thought that it would be fun to see how it went. they had two rigged up – one with a foregrip and one with a standard grip. I chose the latter for no apparent reason at all.

This rod was very similar to the 9 and 10 wt rods. It is noticeably heavier, thicker and stiffer than those two, as was the fly line, so I expected much different. Again, my first cast was simply a quick one-handed cast with no haul just to get the line out in front of me and prepare to start casting. The line seemed to leap forward. For some unknown reason, I thought that a 12 wt rod would require a bit more effort, but using about the same amount of effort that I used on my first casts with the 9 and 10 wt rods yielded a laser sharp 70 foot cast.

It responded to the same relatively short arc, smooth techniques that the other two responded two. It was noticeably heavier, though not oppressively so. I am not saying that it is a rod that I would want blind cast all day long, but the relative length of time that I could cast it versus the time for 10 wt would likely be closer to 1:1 than 2:1. It had a little less feel than the 10 wt, but since I have never cast a 12 weight rod before I was not sure whether this was a function of the heavier rod wt, the particular rod line, or the fact that I was not loading it efficiently. If I were a betting man, the latter reason would be closest to even odds.

This rod was also a cannon. I was able to reach out to distances around 110 feet, which is in the neighborhood of my longest cast ever in a pond or on the water. Next time I will bring a tape measure!

Overall Impression
My overall impression of these rods is quite favorable. They have many of the same qualities that led me to buy a 10 wt Xi2. They are relatively light for a heavy-duty fish fighter. They have a good amount of feel without sacrificing line speed or (perceived) durability. Most importantly, they seem to generate tremendous line speed with a minimum of force, which makes it easier to cast them for long periods of time. The line speed seems to be a little more than that generated by the Xi2, but since I fish mine with a lot of heavy sinking lines and these all had rated floaters, it may have little or nothing to do with rod designs.

The 9wt, 10wt, and 12wt all had similar feel and performance, while the 8 wt seemed to be aimed at slightly different target. I would be curious to see if the 7wts and 6wts feel like the 8 wt. My guess is that 8wt was designed with a more all-around usage in mind. While 9-12 wts will be primarily used in the open ocean, be it on the beach, inshore, or blue water, an 8 wt will likely be used on the flats, in the back bays and sloughs, and on tidal rivers and sounds as well as on those other conditions. A slightly softer rod and slightly slower action (though far from slow) might have been deemed more appropriate. I like a little faster, lighter rod for the flats (hence my 8wt XP), but for an all around saltwater/brackish rod it would be a good choice.

I would not ditch my Xi2 for an Xi3, but if I were in the market for a good saltwater rod, these would definitely be near the top of the list.”   — stripersonline.com

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“Here’s what we thought of it.

• The Xi3 is noticeably faster than the Xi2. Jerry Siem at Sage says that the midsection of the rod in particular was sped up a bit. It feels faster overall, with a more consistent bend throughout the rod than the Xi2.
• The new Fuji stripping guides are giant! We’re told that they’re lighter and more durable.
• The reel seat is great – the lock rings have a very deep pattern that makes it easy to crank ‘em down.
• We buy the claim that these rods are more accurate. Cutting-edge rod building technology is a bit beyond us, but we can tell you that the fly tends to land where you want it to land.
• It hucks! Maybe it’s just the faster action, but your line sails, and the difference is more noticeable when you’re dealing with some wind.”  –blog.deneki.com

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“Finally got to cast a few of the different  the new Sage X I 3 when the Sage Rep stopped by the shop Monday.  Thanks Ben, now I’ll have to get all new Saltwater Rods before my next trip South.  Besides the price $695+ the rod is definitely an improvement over the X i 2 rods.  I’d have to say the rod seems to be lighter and more powerful.  It wasn’t a windy day outside the shop but picking up a whole line and shooting it the whole length took less effort than my other rods.  I really like the blue finish, guides and rod case.  All in all, if the rod going to help me cast a crab 10 more feet to catch that permit, it going to be worth the investment.”  — nomadanglers.com

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“One word – CANNONS.

Got the 7-10wts in and they’re absolute rocket launchers.  I’m a big Xi2 fan (own 2 9’s and a 10) and am having a hard time trying to convince myself that I don’t need the new rods.

Butt section is a little stiffer, tip section is a little softer, making it more castable all around, but still able to pick up 50-60ft of line, redirect, and put it right back down.  Lots of power deep down in the butt section of the rod.  Nice hot Pacific Blue colors too…”  –flyfisherman.com

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“The butt section felt stiffer, while enlarging the “timing sweet spot” and becoming more “castable at shorter distances. I was able to quickly pickup lots of line (50ft-60ft depending on the line wt) and quickly get a cast off. My favorite was the 9wt. It was the perfect blend of power, accuracy, and feel. It had enough power that I would use it in place of my 10 wt Xi2 for many applications.

The 8wt felt substantially different than the 9wt and up rods. It seemed to bend deeper and have a softer butt section. It didn’t feel bad, just different. If looking for a rod in the 8wt-9 wt range, I would cast both before deciding.

 All of these rods were setup with full floating lines, which I don’t use much on my Xi2, but I still felt that I could cast the lines a long ways, as long as my shooting head distances in most instances.  It was quite windy that day, and I chose a location where I could cast directly into the wind to get a feel for the worst case scenario, which you usually don’t get with test casting. The rods performed well; punching into the wind, even with my flawed casting style.”  –flyfisherman.com

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“I met a Sage rep the other day and had the chance to cast the nine weight XI3. Its a really nice, super fast, extremely light fly rod. If you thought the 2 was too stiff though, you won’t much like the 3. Definitely reminded me of the TCR.

Excellent rod for long distance work, not my cup of tea though. I’ll stick with my Legend Elite’s.” –southeastflyfishing.com

by Mark Waldin Flycatcher Custom Fly Rods  – When building a fly rod you want the guides to follow the contour of the rod.   You’ll want to place the stripping guide as close to the butt as possible so that you gain maximum effect of the rod energy on the line.

BUT, you want to be able to easily strip line with your opposite hand.  You’ll want as much line as possible unencumbered by the guides so you can strip the most in a single motion.  Also, you want the lowest possible angle from the reel to the stripping guide.  As a result, you want to place the guide very far away from the butt.

These two goals fight against each other and you have to find a comfortable solution.  For my money, I want to place the stripping guide for maximum stripping ability.  The only time I might violate this is when using a short progressive taper rod, where the rod bend extends far down the rod.  In most cases, the butt section of the rod is very stiff, bends little, and holds only a small amount of casting energy.

Retail rod manufacturers use an “average” person to set the distance, typically 30 inches.  A better way to do it is to place it at a point where the guide is at a comfortable hand reach distance and no more.  You find that by ‘feel’ with an existing rod you have.  The taller you are, the longer your arm reach and the further out you can place the guide.  I have built a table to convert height to stripper distance that is on my web site for people ordering custom rods to use.

by Mark Waldin Flycatcher Custom Fly Rods  About the hardest thing to undo when done wrong on a fly rod is the reel seat.  Once it is epoxied in place and dried, chances are you aren’t going to remove it without damaging either the rod on the reel seat.  Uplocking reel seats like the Struble and Bellinger reel seats I use in building custom rods have a fixed pocket for the reel that sits in an inset into the cork grip.

It is important that the pocket line up with the spine of the butt section of the rod.  I Zero Balance all my rods to find the spine, but you can do it less accurately with manual methods.  Aligning the butt section spine may be more important than any of the other sections (depending on the rod) because it can hold a great deal of the power of the cast.

Make certain you don’t forget to align the pocket with the spine because once the epoxy dries you will be living with a misaligned rod without much recourse.  I always put a reel on the rod, align the spine to the reel and let the whole assembly dry that way.  In this way I am certain that the spine is aligned and the extra step of putting on the reel means I never forget to do the aligning.

by Mark Waldin Custom Fly Rods by Flycatcher  – Small detail but adds to beautiful results.  If you have selected a metal winding check (what’s a winding check you ask: a ring of metal or rubber that covers any gaps between the grip and the rod blank and makes it look nice) for your new rod be careful.

Usually your rod component supplier will have matched the winding check diameter to your blank and you will be fine.  However, if you are trying to size a winding check to your blank you could cause a problem.  If the check is too small it will drop part way down the blank and lodge there.  If you weren’t careful loosening it and sliding it off will cause small scratches in the blank’s finish.

My advice is to start with a ring you are pretty sure is too big.  Slide it down slowly, and don’t drop it on.  If it looks like it isn’t going to go all the way down then move up a size.  Once you get one on see how loose it is and move down in sizes one step at a time until you get the right one.

No scratches and a perfect fit.  You’re set.

by Mark Waldin Flycatcher Custom Fly Rods  You ordered all the parts.  They look great and the rod will be wonderful.  Uh oh, you ordered an uplocking reel seat to go on the Flor grade western cork grip you had in your arsenal and now you realize you have to create an inset in the cork to slide the hood of the reel seat into.  What do you do?

Well, it takes a couple of tools but nothing too expensive.  First thing you need is a drill and a hole saw.  You want to get a hole saw that is 3/32  to 1/8 smaller than the diameter of the reel seat hood.   The hole saw has a drill bit in the middle.  You want to tape the bit so that it just fits nicely inside the hole that runs down the center of the grip.  This will be used to guide the hole saw and keep it true.

Wrap tape around the hole saw just above the depth you want to stop drilling to.  This will keep you from going too deep.  Now, drill out the grip butt.  Once you have done this, you will have a cork ring inside the grip butt that you will need to break out.  You can easily do this with your fingers.

You now have a roughed out hole you need to clean up.  To do that, you will need a dremel  tool.  You can get one for about $20 which is less than the cost of the cork grip that you will ruin if you don’t get it.  Use an abrasive stone cutter on the dremel and slowly increase the diameter of the hole.  Test the diameter frequently as you are going by trying to insert the reel seat hood.  Take your time and you will have a great result.

One other thing, get a reel seat that has a flange on the hood.  This will cover any slight imperfections you create and give you a nice finish.  This usually means a slightly more expensive reel seat, but it will be worth it.

by Mark Waldin Flycatcher Custom Fly Rods – I took an order for a custom fly rod yesterday from Dennis of Colorado.  Really nice fellow.  He was interested in maniform fly rod grips and what I thought about them.  I do offer them on my custom rods but don’t have a lot of personal ‘use’ knowledge of them.  I have read some reviews and comments and I could offer that as advice.

Dennis is wheel chair bound so his fly fishing is a bit different than other folks.  I think a maniform my actually be useful to him.  I think the pistol grip style can help with keeping rod control and I have seen many positive comments.  I cautioned him that fit to the hand could be an issue.  I plan to send him a grip and let him decide if the fit is good.  If it is, I’ll build the rod with it.  If not we’ll go with the reverse half well.

In any case Dennis going to get a beautiful rod.  He ordered a Winston IIx 9ft 5wt.  It will be outfitted with a nickel silver Struble reel seat with Fiddleback maple insert, REC recoil guides and tip top, and japanese silk thread wraps with trim.

Anybody have any insight into these maniform grips?

by Mark Waldin Flycatcher Custom Fly Rods 12/1/08 – There are a number of small gotcha’s when you build a fly rod.  They are often the result of ‘boy was I stupid’ actions.  Trouble is they are easy to do, hard to fix, and nobody warns you of them!  So, here is the first one: Forgot to align the reel seat arbor in the reel seat assembly.  If you’ve ever done this, you will remember it.  Most things in building a fly rod can be fairly easily fixed.  This one is one of the hardest.

Many reel seats come with an arbor that has a cut-out notch along it’s length.  This cut out is where the reel nestles into the  reel seat steadying it.  It is not so hard to epoxy the reel seat in place and forget to align the cut out with the reel pocket on the reel seat.  Once the reel seat epoxy hardens it is next to impossible to remove the reel seat.  About the only way to do it is to cut off the reel seat with a hacksaw (very carefully).  If you can avoid damaging a $300 rod blank you will still have destroyed a reel seat that probably costs $30 to $50.

Geez I hate that.  My advice is to create a checklist for assembly of your rod and add a visual check for this in the checklist.  Have you ever done this?  How did you fix it?

by Mark Waldin, Flycatcher Custom Fly Rods - I spoke with a major fly rod manufacturing company a week or two ago about where they are going and what they are doing to improve the company.  One of the things they are looking at doing is putting a major push on branded apparel.  Branded apparel is a huge market but it is also a fashion market.  There is a lot of road kill in this market, such as Eddie Bauer.  I think they are looking at brands like Under Armour and Nike and thinking that if they can turn their brand into a ‘have to have’ for a certain demographic, then they will rake in the cash. My assumption is that they will want to leverage their position among fly fishing enthusiasts and extend the brand to people that associate with that life style, whether they fish or not.

This leaves a lot of interesting and odd questions:

•   is there a apparel style that fits fishermen?
•   are fly fishermen all cut from the same cloth?
•   will going after apparel damage their fly rod  brand?
•   will a focus on apparel impact the quality of their fly rods?

I’m not so sure that fly fishermen can be so easily classified into a group of people that fit into a certain style.  My guess is they would be going after the backwoods, log cabin kind of feel like LL Bean.  I’m not certain there is space in the market for another LL Bean either.   Plus, my experience with fly fishermen is they’d rather save their money for the next great piece of fly equipment and tackle than put it into a new outdoor triple cord, nylon wrapped, fibrecore enhanced vest with zip in hood, velcro sleeve guards, and double stitched grommet enforced cell phone holder.

What is your take?  Do we need another super brand like Nike?  And can you build it off of a fly rod brand?  Let me know.

by Mark Waldin Flycatcher Custom Fly Rods – I’ve sold a lot of IMX blanks and complete fly rods.  The IMX is not the newest rod (blank) on the market but over the years it has generated one of the largest followings I have seen.  But because it is not a ‘new’ rod, there is not a lot on forums and web sites about this rod.  One thing to note is that it is a mid-priced rod and most typically a 3 section (told you is wasn’t new to the market!) rod.  If you want a quality rod with a good feel many people will tell you, you can’t go wrong with it.  Here is what I could find on the forums:

When Loomis started messing with their rod classifications ( GL4, etc.)and than got out of the rodbuilding blank business they lost a lots of customers and people who would recommend their products. Made no sense to me to completely change everything and leave their customers with zero knowledge base to work with if they wanted to continue to sell product. When they started selling blanks again they were less than a premium quality product, Angler’s Workshop and others were doing a heck of a return business if they weren’t first checking the blanks before they went out. Loomis and others are having a hard time now selling a premium priced product in the market today. Everyone associated with them is feeling the pinch right now. All this said I have always likes the IMX series when I could get a straight one to work with. Blanks like the Rainshdow RX8+ is what I use now to fit the same market. –Rodbuilding Forum

For rods, I own a Loomis GL3 and a Loomis IMX. The Loomis are expensive but are hard to beat. –www.salmoncrazy.com

When I was running my charter boat I was on the Loomis pro-staff…We provided Loomis IMX fly rods 10wt mega, to 17wt prototypes. Many of my customers brought their own Sage rods on board. I have had alot of experience with both. Pick ‘em! You can’t lose with either one. –www.fliesandfins.com

My Fly outfits for Bass are a 10′ 4wt IMX Loomis and an 8′6″ 5wt IMX Loomis. –www.tacklebox.com

I have fished with a Lami 96ls, Loomis GL2 and GL3 and IMX (9′6″) and the rod I use the most now is a custom rod from TH Custom Rods that is a Rainshadow 9′ 6″ 1042 blank with a carbon fiber wrapped handle. It is a medium light action and I like it better than any of the others I have tried. I would put this Rainshadow up there with the Loomis IMX only for half the money. –www.fishingnw.com

I put G. Loomis’s IMX rod up against St.Croix’s Legend Elite, and I have to say that I was really impressed with the St. Croix rod. It has a shorter handle which is easier on the wrist for the day of fishing 10+ hours. I was using a six foot, medium, fast action rod. It was great with Lindy rigs and also jigs. It is now my favorite rod. The IMX from G. Loomis is a great rod also, but not quite the top of their line as that would be the GLX. Still I liked the Loomis but thought it was a little stiffer than the St. Croix when it comes to finesse walleye presentations. The IMX model I have is a 6 ft. medium action rod. –www.nodakoutdoors.com

I can also support the Dan Craft blanks. I have built a Sig V 8′9″ 4wt and it is my go-to and favorite trout rod. I also have a 9′ 6wt FT and it is a great rod, but I like my Sig V so much better. I also like the Loomis IMX line. I built a 9′ 4wt that is a very nice rod. –www.washingtonflyfishing.com

By Mark Waldin Custom Fly Rods – I recently had an exchange with Bruce Richards at Scientific Anglers about overlining for heavy flies and thought I’d share it with you. SA markets a fly line that is 1/2 weight heavier than a standard line. So, their line for a 4 weight rod is actually 4.5 weight. One of the things they note is that it improves casting of heavy flies like nymphs and streamers. I asked Bruce why this would be the case since putting a heavy fly with a heavy line would overweight the rod more rather than less. If anything I would have thought that underlining the rod would be in order. Here is Bruce’s answer.

The best solution to throwing a heavy fly on a line that isn’t capable of casting it properly is to use a heavier weight rod with a line that hefty enough to swing it. If you are in a situation where doing that is not possible then increasing the fly line weight and over lining the rod is the next best solution.

According to Bruce “There are a couple good reasons that using a heavier lines makes casting bigger or heavier flies easier. First, the mass of the line is responsible for carrying the mass of the fly, the heavier or more wind resistant the fly, the more power it takes to drive them and a heavier line does that better. Also, for most casters,using a heavier line on a rod will tend to make the loop a little bigger, and slower. Bigger, slower loops are better for throwing bigger flies.”

My interpretation of Bruce’s comments is that you want the fly line to carry the fly. You don’t want the fly dragging the fly line behind it. If the fly weighs too much for the line you are casting, the fly will drag the line along and your fly line loop will be too tight and the action will be compromised. So, you might think you want to cast a lighter line so that the total weight matches your fly rod but you will wind up casting what amounts to a rock tied to a string…no loops, no turnover, no subtle presentation.

Going to the heavier line will cause you to lose some effectiveness of the rod by having the line weight unmatched to the rod and you will have to adjust your casting rhythm accordingly. But you will have a better loop and better presentation. Of course, moving to a heavier weight rod with a matching line weight is the best solution.

by Mark Waldin Custom Fly Rods – I built a new fly rod last week. This rod is truly sweet. The rod has a Batson RX-7+ 8′ 6″ 4wt blank. It is a medium fast rod in a beautiful carmel color that I paired with deep cinnamon thread and yellow trim. I decked it out with the usual…a gorgeous cocobolo insert Struble nickel silver reel seat, a flor grade half well grip, and a nickel silver winding check. For guides I used single foot Fuji guides; titanium alloy frames with silicon carbide inserts. These are extremely lightweight, extremely slick, and hard as nails.

Today, I took the rod out on the North Fork of the Snoqualamie river (western Washington in the Cascade mountains for the uninitiated). The rod performed beautifully. It was effortless to cast and doing all the work for me. The Fuji guides were phenomenal..no kidding. The line flowed through the guides like butter as if their were no guides there at all. I was in heaven. Caught two nice cutthroats.

That’s when it happened. Deep, fast water. One mis-step, lost my balance. On regaining my footing, I dropped down a small slope which increased the force of the water and pull me off my feet altogether. Moments later I was floating down a 50 degree river, lost my hat, lost my prescription glasses,  broke my rod and lost the top three sections.

Well, that rod was so awesome, I’m going to have to rebuild it.   Whoa, a good day, a bad day, an ugly day.

by Mark Waldin Custom Fly Rods - today I am posting user comments from various forums talking about the Sage VT-2.  Personally I really like the VT-2 for several reasons.  First it is a Sage which means it has the best finish and construction of any rods I have built.  Second, it is Sage’s value rod blank so it can be had for a lower price but being a Sage, even their value rod blank is exceptional.  It has a sweet action and is more of a mid taper rod with a good feel.  Enjoy the reviews below.

The sage VT-2 is an excellent rod for multi-species fishing. I know first-hand how it compares with the Orvis T-3, another excellent rod.

Kevin Mihailoff www.snookin.com is an endorsed Sage Guide and carried a Sage VT-2 9-weight aboard for me to use.

In the two days I fished with the VT-2 I enjoyed its easy loading and Tip-sensitive accuracy. More often than I expected, I had compliments from my boat mate and surprisingly from Kevin himself ( Kevin rarely compliments anyone’s casting). There is hardly ever a perfect cast. Maybe a perfect retrieve….but rare.

So I can say that the VT-2 has everything the T-3 has and maybe it’s a tad smoother. My T-3 is a tip-flex 10 and I can punch it into a wind and deliver the fly with my thumb….neither rod is for wimpy deliveries and casual casters…this VT-2 cut the mustard! One back cast at 50+ feet. –posted www.fliesandfins.com

I have been curious about these (Sage VT2) new rods, so I bought the 905/4 blank assembled one. I fished it with a RIO classic WF 5 line and was very impressed. The rod is very light and has a wonderful medium fast action. The rod tracks very well and with two false casts shoots 70 ft. of line with ease. The blank is a thinner wall and larger diameter than the SLT or XP series. It also cast great at 20 ft. 40ft. and out to 70 ft. I could feel the rod digging into the butt section when trying for 70 ft. but had plenty of power to punch out the line. The blank color is a blue green that is one of the best looking I have ever seen. As with all Sage blanks the ferrules fit perfect and the surface finish was flawless. The blank was also very straight. Without a doubt Sage produces the most consistent blanks as far as fit and finish go, of all the rod makers. A very user friendly rod, that will make a wonderful trout and bass rod. This rod feels so smooth and fluid when casting that throws very tight loops with ease. In my opinion a much improved action over the VPS rods /blanks that were the old RPL series. –posted www.flyfish.com

my buddy has one (Sage VT2) and really likes his. 9ft 5wt. I’ve cast it and it is a cannon. good for the wind. i would not describe it as a delicate rod if that means anything. my 5wt Winston Biix feels like a 4wt. The VT2 feels like a 6wt. It would be a great nymph rod and good all around rod for the money. –posted www.washingtonflyfishing.com

I am very happy with my VT2(9ft, 5 wt.). It is a very fast action rod which is great for my casting style. I have the FLI 8 wt but like the VT2 a little better. –posted www.washingtonflyfishing.com

Have fished and still fish the VT2s along with the XI2s and TCRs. We field tested the VT2 from 7 to 10 wt at Harkers Island and use the 7 and 10 in our charters. The final product survived Cape Lookout ablies with no worries and the 10 wt slung T-14 all winter. The 7 was the most popular rod in our spring fly school. Good rods and they are made in America. –www.stripersonline.com

I have a Sage VT2 9′6″ 6 wt. and a 9′ 10 wt. G. Loomis Cross Current and love them both. However, I don’t think that there are really very many “bad” rods around. You might also want to consider the Sage Z-Axis. Your best bet is to go and cast each of the rods, to find out which you like best. –posted www.fliesandfins.com

So back to the unsung VT2. The 590-4 is a great all-rounder that will fish everywhere you want to take it and I’ve always had a hankering to throw the 9’6”5wt too, just to see… The 8’6” 3wt is a great low water rod for the tailwaters, and we have had a lot of fun with the 8-weight. … The 379-4 ( 7’9” 3 weight) is a gem, crisp delicate yet throws a Sage loop, that we really like. The 691-4 we mentioned earlier is another exceptional rod for tossing streamers on the White River tailwaters, for chasing hybrids, white bass and walleye in the Ozark rivers and lakes, and even for sea trout, and smaller redfish in the salt. –posted moutainriverjournal.wordpress.com

The folks recommending the TFO rods are making a good suggestion as well, but having fished with both the TFO rods and the VT-2 in 8 weights, I found the VT-2 suited my cast better, I was more precise at longer distances, and still able to make short casts and have the rod loaded suitably. –posted www.talkflyfishing.com

Right now I am using my 5wt 9ft sage VT2, with okuma helios reel with orvis wonder line. I got the Sage 5wt from Lake City,CO. This rod is great, I love how it cast. –posted www.paflyfish.com

Max, I am quite satisfied with the Sage VT2 series. I own a 4 wt and it is quite impressive given that it is a “value” rod. –posted www.flyfishingforum.com

Another rod series that is hardly ever talked about is the VT2. This is the ’son’ of the VPS which again is a RPL with cheaper clothes. The RPL as you may or may not know is one of the greates successes of any flyrod. They have “modernised” the action a bit and given it a new look, but the legendary “Sage feel” is still there. I reckon it must surely be one of the best value for money rods out there at the moment. –posted www.flyshop.co.nz

by Mark Waldin Custom Fly Rods — I collected what I could find around the web of user reviews of the Sage ZXL fly rod. My conclusion is that if you are a die hard LL or SLT fan you may not like the ZXL. If you have an open mind and a willing body, are looking for a nice presentation rod, and want a premium rod you might just find the ZXL to be one sweet rod.

Well we had our first play with the new Sage ZXL series rods today. This is the SLT replacement. This is a moderate casting dry fly rod, sweet action. Yes its a $650 rod, which doesn’t appeal to a lot of people on here, others like them, personal choice, we’ve had that debate here lol. But to talk about how it casts. Pretty effortless, and I get to cast a lot of rods. Its not a cannon, very approachable.

Now there is a trend among a lot of highend rods to have a dramatically soft tip, moving towards a stiff butt. Think ZAxis; Winston Biix type of action. Very noticable when your pulling line off the water, and they do protect light tippets. This rod has a tippet protecting tip, but its a much gentler transition through the midsection into the butt. for me at least that means smooth. I can relax fishign these rods, there’s no alarm bells going off through the pickup, false casts and delivery.

Lightness of the G5 rods (Sage’s tradename for this technology) is right there, pretty color. –posted http://ozarkanglers.com

Had a chance to cast one the other day. Think it was the 9′5wt..very nice rod, very smooth but not that fast..I liked it alot.. –posted http://ozarkanglers.com

I’ve read some posts by guys who tried it. The conclusion is if you like the LL, you probably won’t like the ZXL. If you like the SLT, you probably won’t like the ZXL. If you like something in the middle of those two. You’ll like it. –posted http://www.flyfish.com

I have just received my ZXL 9ft 5wt and really like it.
I am just playing with some different lines on it at present to see which one I prefer. I have fished the SA XPS on it and am about to try the SA GPX and Rio Gold for a comparison. I also have the Sage SLT and Z-Axis in 5wt 9ft and love them all. Timing and feeling your rod load will make the real difference! –posted http://www.flyfish.com

I made my first major purchase rod purchase in a couple of years this fall….. the lovely Sage ZXL 5 weight, matched to the Airflo Trout Tactical Ridge Line, this outfit is a beautiful addition to my arsenal. I’ve been fishing it almost exclusively since I purchased it and find it to be the perfect balance of power and delicacy…. it casts as far as I need it to but is soft enough to protect the 7x tippets we use on a daily basis here on the Farmington. –posted http://www.farmingtonriver.com

The new ZXL is far superior to the SLT for my personal casting. –posted http://outdoorsbest.zeroforum.com

Sage 376 ZXL gets my vote. You got that kind of money, you buy Sage or Winston. But I’m a Sage guy. –posted http://flyfishcalgary.com

i also have the zxl 9ft 5wgt it is a lovely rod but is it any better than the slt? –posted http://www.sexyloops.co.uk

I recently acquired a Sage ZXL rod and have found it to be the best casting rod I have ever owned. –posted http://www.ozarkchronicles.com

I got a sage 590-ZXL and I love it… Super smooth, light and very accurate. … –posted www.utahonthefly.co

by Mark Waldin Custom Fly Rods – I’ve been asked a number of times about which rod blank is which when it comes to G Loomis fly rod blanks. Loomis has a strong tendency to re-use names for their fly rods and put addendums on them. For example they make a GLX Cross Current rod and a GLX Presentation rod. The Presentation rod comes in 3 line speeds all called Presentation. I don’t know about you but to me these are fundamentally different rods and should have different names. It makes it hard for the consumer to know what is going on.

It is even more difficult when you are looking to build a rod because Loomis sells the GLX rod blank but it has no indication as to which GLX it is! If anyone wanted to deliberately confuse people they couldn’t have done a better job. So if you are looking to build or are looking to buy a custom fly rod, you need a little more insight in to what Loomis is doing. Here is my understanding.

Loomis makes some very nice rods, but the company has some strange quirks that make it difficult for anglers. Perhaps it is because they are owned by Shimano, perhaps not. The most important thing to know is Loomis does not sell any rod blanks for any current production fly rods. All blanks are older models.

Because Loomis is not building rod blanks for sale using current fly rods, they have to set up a special production run when they go to build blanks for sale. (This may be why the quality control on the blanks seems to vary.) Rod blanks are built in fits and starts with varying degrees of availability. It is not unusual to find that a particular rod blank is months away from being produced.

If your heart is set on G Loomis then order your blank and wait until you can get it. If you have some latitude, my recommendation for rod builders is to look to St Croix if you want a rod blank that has excellent performance and a great performance to price ratio. If you want the best of the best rod blanks then go with Sage. With St Croix you’ll get a very comparable rod and with Sage you’ll get a rod that will beat Loomis every time.

by Mark Waldin Custom Fly Rods – I’ve collected a lot of web site forum commentary on the G Loomis GLX rod.  Please enjoy reading and add your comments if you have opinions on this rod!  Enjoy…

25 foot performance – 18 points out of 20

The softer progressive tip of this rod contributes to the excellent short-range accuracy and feel. No one has mastered the technology like Steve Rajeff and G. Loomis when it comes to building really small diameter rod tips. It’s hard to believe, but the tip diameter of this 5 weight StreamDance GLX, just below the tip wrap, measures only .053”! The next best is Sage at .059” and all the rest of the rods go from .061” (Scott G-2) to .067” (Orvis Zero G.) All the G. Loomis StreamDance rods we’ve sold have proven to be extremely strong despite the tiny tip diameters. Breakage rates are one of the lowest in the industry.

Excellent accuracy at short distance, combined with a very light swing weight making this a great rod for dry fly fishing and lots of false casting.

45 foot performance – 20 points out of 20

A virtual dead heat with the Z-Axis. Terrific feel and accuracy. Slightly heavier in my hand (heavier swing weight) than the Sage but equal in mid-distance performance, accuracy and power. Both of these finalists are on a higher performance plateau than all the other rods tested.

70 foot performance – 18 points out of 20

Wonderful power and accuracy. Unbelievable explosive power on tap when you need it. Lean on this rod and the line really flies! A great performer at long distance and an amazing amount of reserve power that you didn’t believe existed. Throwing a tight loop into a hard wind was effortless.

–posted Yellowstone Angler

I don’t own one, but I have cast it, drooled over it even tried to smuggle it out LOL. A very, very nice rod. Fast but delicate. –posted North American Fly Fishing Forum

A 4 or 5 lb trout on a 6wt G-Loomis (Streamdance GLX) rod is something every angler should have the opportunity to experience. –posted www.marinews.com

A friend of mine has one of these (Loomis GLX) in the 9′6″ length … and it’s one SWEET casting fly rod. –posted Rocky Mountain Fly Forums

I casted a friend’s Z-Axis last June, and it was probably the best casting rod I have ever casted. It was effortless for getting the line out, and it was accurate as hell. I might even put it above my G-Loomis StreamDance GLX for casting ability…which says a lot because the GLX is a hell of a rod too. –posted http://flyangler.ca

For an all-round 5-wt for Colorado I flat love my Loomis GL3. I have a 6-wt GLX and it has its place (mainly in wind or stillwater fishing) but for most my nymphing and dry fishing the GL3 has my heart. –posted Intermedia Outdoor Forum

In the $600.00 range the Z Axis, BXII and the Streamdance GLX in the 9′ 5 wts. are as good as it gets. –posted Intermedia Outdoor Forum

My 8 weight Loomis GLX weighs aprox the same as most brands 6 weight. I can also cast the Loomis with 2 fingers anda palm, so yes I would spend the big bucks versus cutting corners. For comparable money, if I had to choose a non-Lomis rod, then the St Croix Ultra Legend would be a better value. Plus both are American made. –posted TexasKayakFishermen.com

I gave a try to the tiboronII, didn’t like it so much, kind of tiring… sent it back for refund. Got a great deal on a loomis CC-GLX, this rod is awesome, light, nervous, smooth, lots of fun I love it. –posted Fly Rod Review

I use my glx as often as I use my Sage. I’ve put my T&T rods on the back burner for now because I think the GLX and the Sage are better rods for me, especially when casting weighted streamers.

No, i’m not a pro by any means but I know what a good rod feels like and I know what a crap rod feels like. Then again, it’s all based on personal preference. My opinion is that the old GLX outperforms the new GLX by a long shot. My personal opinion is that the St. Croix and the Orvis Zero G rods are really nice too. –posted New Jersey Fly Fishing

by Mark Waldin  Flycatcher Custom Fly Rods – I know a lot of fly rod builders that advise a newbie to build a cheap fly rod to get started.  They figure it is going to turn out looking like crap so why mess up on a good rod.  My opinion is that if you build a rod that you really don’t want to use to fish and you expect to screw it up, then chances are you are going to have a rod you are not proud of when you get done.  My opinion is to not even build a rod unless it is one you plan to do right and you plan to be proud of and fish with for years to come.  I think that most people are most afraid of the guide wrappings and coating.  This is the area that may be hardest to get right the first time.  So I am going to give you a few pointers to help you along.  But I also want you to know that even if you do mess it up, the guides are the easiest thing to redo and fix also.  So, buy the rod you really want and take your time to do it right.  You’ll be proud of it and you’ll love fishing it.

Here are a few tips:

Overlapping wraps: when you are laying down wraps watch carefully for thread overlapping a previous wrap.  This will show up in the finished product.  Take your time and inspect as you go.  If you have to, wrap so that there is a gap between the wrap going down and the wraps already down.  Then use your thumbnail to pull them up tight.

Separating wraps: wrap three or four thread wraps and then pull the wrap up tight using your thumbnail.  This will keep the wrap snug with no gaps.  Drop your pull through loop in place at least 5 or 6 wraps from the end so that the final wraps don’t come loose when you put down the wrap coat.  Make sure those final wraps are snug but not too snug or you will not be able to pull the thread through with the loop.

Hanging chads: use a razor blade to cut your thread down close to the wrapping.  A somewhat dull blade is often better than a new one as it has some small pitting in it that acts to snag and cut the thread.  Many times you will not have any hanging thread when you do this.  Where you do have hanging thread use a cigarette lighter to melt back the nub being careful not to melt the wrap.

Wrap coat bubbles:  You need not have bubbles in your wrap coat if you are careful.  Use a narrow bottom vessel like a pill cup to mix your coating.  Use a plastic stirring stick like a coffee stirrer.  Stir so slow that you think you couldn’t go any slower and then go slower.  Heat the mixture with a hair dryer or a warm water bath before stirring.  It will probably take 3 or more minutes to thoroughly stir your coating…that’s ok!

Get a rod turner: Yes you can build a rod without any equipment but do you want the result to look good?  Get a rod turner.  You can get one pretty cheap so don’t skimp on this essential tool.  Work quickly but not by compromising quality.  You’d do better to get half done and have to stir up another batch of coating than to be sloppy.  If it seems your coating is starting to thicken up too much, try the hair dryer to thin it down some.  Worst case, mix another batch.   Use the first coat to just thoroughly soak the thread.  Don’t try to use it to create a nice finish.  That is what the next two coats are for.

Inspect frequently and thoroughly:  Before the first coat make sure you’ve gotten all the thread nubs off that you can and make sure all the thread wraps are pulled up tight with no gaps in the thread.  Do this BEFORE you mix up the coating or start applying it!

Trim: after the first (each) coat look for any bumps or stray coating lumps that may have built.  Use a razor to cut them off and smooth them up.

Work in a ‘clean’ room: Dust is death. Wrap finish is glossy and reflective.  Even the smallest dust particle in your wrap finish is going to alter the reflection of light and provide pinpoints of reflected light that will make any imperfection look ten times bigger than it is.   The only way to avoid this is to work in an extremely clean room.  Make sure the room is dusted, vacuumed, and cleaned first.  Make sure that any dust that may have been stirred up (while cleaning even) has settled before you begin.  Make sure you are clean and lint free.  This advice can make a big difference in your outcome so don’t skimp here.

Finally, remember that a wrapping screw up can be fixed so don’t get paranoid.

by Mark Waldin Flycatcher Custom Fly Rods – I’ve been doing a series pulling user reviews of various fly rods from a variety of web sites. I find trying to get reviews of rods very frustrating. This review is of the St Croix Legend Elite series of fly rods. This is the SCV rod blank and St Croix’ top of the line. Personally I find that you get more rod for your money with St Croix than any other brand I know. I really love these rod blanks. To get a more complete review of a variety of rods go to Flycatcher’s Fly Wiki .

Here are the reviews along with their sources:

I use a 7wt. legend elite on the Delaware. It’s a rocket launcher. The fast action suits my casting style. It’s the third one I’ve bought. I’ve got a 4wt and a 5wt also. Love them all, the 5 is my favorite. –posted www.paflyfish.com

I’ve liked every St. Croix rod I’ve ever fished with. I did fish with a “elite” when I visted the Smokies. I got to fish both a Sage and that Elite and liked the elite better. –posted www.paflyfish.com

For fly rodders ready to make the step up to truly world-class fly rod, you’ll be happy to know that St.Croix’s commitment to value has not been ignored. The St.Croix Legend Elite is a fly rod that does its job exceedingly well. Aesthetics and workmanship are first rate, a commitment to quality made even more obvious by their choice of components. Give the Legend Elite a try next time you’re in the market for a fly rod –posted on www.hipwader.com (by Rob O’Reilly)

if the rod your are dealing for is the Legend Elite go for it (buy it). I have the 7wt and it will throw some line. –posted www.washingtonflyfishing.com

I own an 8wt, 10 foot Elite, which in my opinion is an excellent rod–sensitive yet powerful. –posted www.washingtonflyfishing.com

Legend Ultras/Elites are awesome. I had both in 5wts and still have my Elite 4pc 5wt 9′ and will compete with any Zaxis,etc. Go for it! www.washingtonflyfishing.com

I’m not going to lie, the St. Croix Legend Elite fly rod is going to cost you a pretty penny. Standard prices are between $500-$570. However, each reviewer made a point that the rod is well worth the money and that other rods of this make and quality would cost much, much more.

Do you own a Legend Elite fly rod? If so, tell a story, write a review, or rant and rave. Whatever your opinion on this piece of equipment, I want to know. Tell me everything you can by simply posting a comment! –posted www.outdoorequipmentreviews.com

GLoomis & St. Croix in the same sentence..BOO HISS..I hate GLoomis anything! Junk rods at high dollar prices..for that cash i’d take a St. Croix Legend Elite anyday. –posted www.fishingohio.net

If you get the chance, try out the Legend Ultra side by side when you throw the Elite. They are made on the same mandrels as the Elite and my experience tells me will be substantially similar in price. The Elite is faster graphite, but the LU is not slow and with the new tapers should be snappy and quick. I’d expect a much tippier action. The Legend Ultra is my favorite mid level rod, and I own two and Lauren has a third, but it is a tad bit weak in the middle for long casts. –posted ezboard.com

(Sage XP vs St Croix Legend Elite 10′ 6wt) You are correct in surmising that the Sage XP and the St. Croix Elites are very similar in action. In fact, I like the St. Croix Elite just a little bit more than the XP because it is a hair faster than the XP. –posted www.flyfishingforum.com

i have to concur with the masses, i use a st. croix legend elite 6′6″ medium action, and a legend elite ultra light
and the sensitivity is fantastic. the price is a bit steep, –posted www.chicagolandfishing.com

I have the St Croix Elite in a 10wt. One of the best 10’s I have ever had the pleasure of casting. You could do no wrong with that rod. –posted www.stripersonline.com

Ken has the new Legend Elite in a 10 wt. and likes it very well! Fast rod with a light touch…plenty of backbone. No problem. –posted www.stripersonline.com